The kitchens here have become culinary laboratories, and sophisticated ones at that – molecular methods, inconceivable ingredients, multi cultural influences, all with a large douse of national pride. From visually stunning, artisanal tasting menus, that make use of the country’s biodiversity (such as the 3,000 varieties of potatoes grown in Peru) to articulate reinventions of staple dishes such as ceviche and guinea pig. The chefs here are celebrities, scientists and artists who have made waves internationally by simply answering their creative calling yet whose restaurants have given Peru a greater sense of identity.
Here are a sample of these champions:
CENTRAL
Chef Virgilio Martinez takes his Peruvian landscape inspired tasting menu to a whole other level by combining ingredients grown at various elevations such as cushura (edible bacteria from the mountains) and airampo (a pink cactus like fruit from the Andes). Although the complex menu sounds intimidating, its bark is worse than its bite. Colourful, simple dishes are produced artistically and are well worth the month long waiting list. Those based in London can visit Central’s trendy sister restaurants, Lima Fitzrovia and Lima Floral.
Antilophia loves: The rooftop herb garden
ASTRID Y GASTON
An established leader of Peruvian cuisine, Gaston Acurio keeps his latest conquest close to his heart at his childhood home in the San Isidro district of Lima. His 3-hour tasting menu is both nostalgic and culturally resonating, each dish relating to a personal memory of growing up in Peru. Cue vintage biscuit tins of school like treats and dinnertime staples of mashed potato and fried eggs, albeit elevated to Acurian high standards. Rumour has it the Godfather of Peruvian food is also opening a branch of his seafood restaurant La Mar, in London next year.
Antilophia loves: Acurio’s culinary school based in the slums of Lima
EL MERCADO
After Gaston Arcurio, comes Rafael Osterling who is renowned for his Peruvian, Mediterranean fused menus. Whilst his rather suave art deco style restaurant, Rafael, takes centre stage for dinners, his lunch outpost has taken the ceviche scene by storm. El Mercado, has a market-style atmosphere that caters for the jovial midday buzz and serves a comprehensive menu of Peruvian coastal dishes. Always on the lips of a Lima local, the menu pays respect to the sea, farmers and fisherman. Diners enjoy a stylish yet no nonsense atmosphere whilst tucking into a fresh fish tiradito or bloody mary ceviche.
Antilophia loves: The vegetation that adorns the walls and the exposed kitchen
MALABAR
The Head Chef at Malabar, Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, refined his craft on board the seriously sophisticated Aria boat in the Amazon and now his talents are delivered with thought and finesse through this height of gastronomical creation. Expect visually stunning dishes of bizarre concoctions; from cured bottarga with organic tomatoes, persillade and caper jelly to braised beef tongue with pickled carrots and passion fruit arrachas. Sustainability is key at this restaurant as Schiaffino works with a handful of non-intensive farmers in the Amazon adding yet another notch to the chef’s belt. Every visit to his restaurant is a lesson of culinary ambition.
Antilophia loves: The well-stocked bar nearly as much as its food. Allow time for a pre dinner pisco infused cocktail
Antilophia Tip: If you’re looking for something more laidback, head to Amaz, Schiaffino’s sister restaurants for creative Amazonian dishes
MAIDO
Currently number 13 on the World’s Best Restaurant list and a personal favourite of Lima. The Lima born chef, Mitsuharu Tsumura, creates Peruvian / Japanese Fusion, known as ‘Nikkei’. The restaurant is beautifully minimalistic and you can choose between counter seating or a more traditional restaurant experience.
Antilophia loves: Maido’s legendary sours and the most surprising sushi creations
CALA
A firm summer favourite of ours overlooking the rolling Pacific waves on Barranco Beach. This seaside bar and restaurant oozes elegance and the kitchen serves delicious Peruvian seafood with a modern twist. One of our favourite dishes is the zingy grilled grouper with olive gazpacho.
Antilophia loves: Cala’s lucuma tiramisu (lucuma is a super nutritious native Andean fruit)
LA PICANTERÍA
La Picanteria is located just a few blocks from the famous Surquillo market. Diners share two long tables to feast on traditional hearty Peruvian food with a twist. Chef Héctor Solís knows his chilies and the dishes come with just enough heat to leave you at the edge of wanting more. It’s also famous for its amazing “Chicha” (maize extract) bar at the entrance. Pure Peru!
Antilophia loves: La Picanterias sea urchin omelette, stuffed with rocoto chili peppers and stewed osso buco